These designers are reviving an ancient craft — using plastic waste
Reviving Tradition Through Innovation: Egyptian Designers Tackle Plastic Waste
These designers are reviving an ancient - Egypt, known for its ancient heritage and cultural richness, is now confronting a pressing modern issue: the accumulation of plastic waste. Annually, the country generates approximately 2.5 million metric tons of plastic, surpassing all Mediterranean nations in ocean-bound waste. Plastic bags, in particular, contribute significantly, with estimates suggesting each person uses between 350 to 560 per year across different regions.
In Cairo, a duo of designers, Mariam Hazem and Hend Riad, has emerged as a pioneer in addressing this environmental challenge. Their brand, Reform Studio, transforms discarded plastic into functional and artistic items, including furniture, clothing, and handbags. “We don’t view waste as the final stage of a material,” said Riad. “It’s an opportunity, a new fabric.”
The Fabric of Change: Plastex
The pair’s innovation, Plastex, was developed during their final year at the German University in Cairo. This fabric is created by melting plastic into fine threads, which are then interwoven with cotton or other natural fibers. Unlike traditional textiles, Plastex remains undyed, resulting in one-of-a-kind pieces that span a vibrant array of hues. Tests reveal its remarkable durability: the material can stretch to twice its original length and supports over 50 kilograms (110 pounds) in weight.
The weaving process is carried out by local artisans on a handloom—a framework that holds vertical threads under tension while horizontal ones are interlaced manually. The looms have been slightly adapted to handle the novel threads, blending old-world craftsmanship with modern sustainability goals.
A Legacy of Weaving
Egypt’s history of handweaving dates back millennia. The Tarkhan Dress, a 5,000-year-old garment discovered 50 kilometers (31 miles) south of Cairo, exemplifies this tradition. Dating to between 3482 and 3102 BC, it underscores how weaving was central to Egyptian society. Flax, abundant in the Nile Valley, enabled the production of high-quality linen, which was a prized export. Textiles even served as currency, with figures like Pharaoh Tutankhamen often buried in woven garments.
Today, however, this craft faces decline. Handweaving in Upper Egypt, once the heart of the tradition, is now listed as an Intangible Cultural Heritage in Need of Urgent Safeguarding. “The Industrial Revolution and the rise of affordable Chinese and Indian textiles have eroded its presence,” noted Dr. Gillian Vogelsang-Eastwood, an Egyptian textile historian and archaeologist. “Modern electric looms have replaced the artisanal methods that once defined the region.”
Empowering Women Through Craft
Reform Studio not only revives ancient techniques but also fosters empowerment. The brand collaborates with 14 weavers in Cairo, many of whom are women from marginalized communities. “Empowerment goes beyond employment,” explained Hazem. “It’s about building confidence, safeguarding traditional knowledge, and offering financial independence.”
Despite progress, integrating new materials into traditional practices posed challenges. “Finding artisans open to change was difficult,” Hazem admitted. “For them, weaving is a heritage passed through generations. In a male-dominated society, leading teams of older men was no small feat.”
By merging sustainability with cultural preservation, Reform Studio highlights how the past can inspire solutions to today’s environmental crises. The brand’s work bridges history and innovation, proving that ancient crafts can evolve to meet modern needs.