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Seeing the Dalai Lama’s Portrait After Years Away
Emotions overwhelmed Cheogyal Dawa as he encountered something he had not witnessed publicly since childhood: a large portrait of the Dalai Lama, the spiritual head of Tibetan Buddhism. The image, which Chinese authorities prohibit from public display, stood prominently at a facility welcoming new Tibetan refugees in Kathmandu, Nepal’s capital. Cheogyal described the moment vividly:
“I was so excited I burst into tears,” Cheogyal said of seeing the large portrait, which is banned from being displayed within China, at a center for new Tibetan refugees in Kathmandu, the capital of Nepal, earlier this year. “Then I felt that I had reached a safe place, that I was free.”
At twenty-five years old, this represented his initial departure from China. His journey has positioned him among the relatively few Tibetans who have chosen exile in recent years, making his narrative a valuable firsthand perspective on growing up in the Tibetan region during a period of significant transformation.
Xi Jinping’s Policies and Cultural Shifts
Cheogyal’s experience coincides with sweeping changes implemented under Chinese leadership since 2012. President Xi Jinping has emphasized “Sinicizing” religious practices while critics point to heightened efforts to control ethnic minorities, particularly in Tibet and Xinjiang. Beijing recently formalized these objectives through comprehensive ethnic unity legislation that took effect on July 1.
According to official statements, the legislation seeks to “forge a strong sense of community for the Chinese nation.” However, human rights organizations argue the measures intensify forced assimilation and diminish minority languages, while increasing consequences for advocates supporting ethnic communities both domestically and internationally.
Just one day following the law’s implementation, a Tibetan activist performed a self-immolation outside United Nations headquarters in New York—an unusually dramatic gesture reflecting growing concern within the Tibetan exile community about how Beijing’s policies will affect future generations.
A Generational Divide Emerges
Cheogyal decided to share his story with CNN under his real name to document the transformations he has witnessed throughout his life. He worries that his cohort may be the final generation in China with access to formal education in Tibetan history, language, and cultural traditions.
“The older generation can’t communicate with the younger generation now. If grandparents want to tell some stories about Tibet or their own stories, the younger generation can’t understand them,” Cheogyal said. “They’re completely cut off.”
His observations align with research conducted by academics and rights organizations documenting extensive educational reforms affecting Tibetan children. These changes include prioritizing Chinese language instruction over Tibetan, a shift now embedded in the recently enacted ethnic unity legislation.
Barriers to Leaving Tibet
Historically, thousands of Tibetans departed annually, but current conditions have reduced these numbers considerably. The Central Tibetan Administration, Tibet’s government-in-exile, reported to CNN that fewer than 90 refugees arrived in India between 2020 and 2025. Chinese authorities have complicated passport acquisition, while land borders—fortified more than ten years ago—remain largely impassable or dangerous to cross.
Improved economic opportunities within Tibet may also reduce motivation to emigrate. Additionally, expanded digital monitoring systems have constrained how residents exchange information with international contacts. These surveillance measures extend beyond the Tibet Autonomous Region to include portions of adjacent provinces such as Sichuan, Cheogyal’s home province.
The Journey to Dharamshala
Cheogyal successfully departed by air using travel documents obtained earlier this year. Upon arriving in Kathmandu, he noted feeling noticeable due to his Tibetan appearance, though he entered Nepal without complications. With assistance from a reception facility, he subsequently traveled to India and reached Dharamshala, a city that has served as the heart of the Tibetan movement since the 14th Dalai Lama established his government-in-exile there over six decades ago.
This departure was not Cheogyal’s initial attempt to escape. During the widespread demonstrations against Chinese governance throughout Tibet in 2008, when he was eight years old, he tried to follow his father and uncle, who had left around the same period of unrest.
As the 91-year-old Dalai Lama’s health becomes a focal point, China’s ruling Communist Party—which maintains official atheism—continues to assert exclusive authority over determining his successor. Cheogyal’s story offers insight into how these political developments intersect with daily life for Tibetans navigating cultural preservation amid increasing centralization.
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